Thursday, 18 April 2019

When your dam runs dry... dig a new dam

Here is our problem:

Plus we have a problem of a "scrape and fill" dam, which means it is very shallow - about 1.5 meters in a typical season.

Dams that are shallow evaporate quickly. A dam 3 meters deep will typically lose 60% over Summer while one 5 metres deep will lose 40%. So a 1.5 metre deep dam will lose...... everything!

So we have decided to fix the problem by pushing in the dam wall and digging a new dam.

This is fundamentally driven by the current dam being built over a stone reef which make digging down hard, and by the fact that the current wall is like a dike in Holland. It is unnecessarily high and aesthetically ugly.

The new dam will provide the following outcomes:

  • Capacity of 4.5 Ml
  • Deep
  • Can swim in it during Summer
  • Aesthetically integrated with the landscape
  • Can be seen from the house as a feature
This approach was conceived by us but confirmed by both a local water expert and by the contractor who will dig the dam and move the earth.

Future posts will show the process.

Thursday, 20 December 2018

Dams to Wetlands: Part 3 - Time to Plant

November and December are the best months to plant in and around the water of the dam.

As the dam water receeds, the space becomes accessible and new plantings have a chance to become established before being inundated by the Autumn rains.

The objective of the plantings is to:

  1. Stabilise the soil around the dam
  2. Create habitat for native wilflife, particularly  frogs
  3. Become water purifiers
  4. Improve the aesthetics of the space

We took the chance to put in about 70 plants as close to the water as possible. These included the River Bottle Brush (Callistemon sieberi) as we as various rushes (Juncus) species sourced from the local nursery and being of local provenance.

All these plants have the benefits of being fast-growing, while the Juncus is particularly easy to plant, not requiring staking or covering. The local Macropods also don't seem too interested when there is tastier grass to be found elsewhere.

The area we chose to plant was the gentle slope down the hill, which is basically a mud flat, full of silt and nutrients. This is in contrast to the dam-wall side, which is rocky and would be more difficult for the plants to establish.

The plantings on the mud-flat area should quickly spread and start to fill that space.

Rushes planted in the silt

Several Rush species

See the new plants to the right and below the dam
We'll check back in a few months and see how these are progressing.

Thursday, 13 December 2018

Rain Harvesting First Flush and Leaf Diverter Review

Six months ago, I installed a leaf diverter/filter as well as a first-flush system on our rain water tanks that we use for drinking and household water, to ensure we have a clean water supply.

Now that I've had some time to see them both in action, I thought I would share my findings.

What is a leaf diverter?

As the name suggests, this is a device that prevents leaf and other large debris from entering your rain water tank. The mesh filter also prevents insects, particularly mosquitoes, from entering the tank.

While most poly tanks have a filter, this is not always the case for older tanks such as our concrete tanks. In this case, I purchased the "Rain Harvesting" brand leaf diverter from Bunnings.

Here is the link to their product page.

What is a first flush diverter?

This device diverts a volume of water from entering your tank which is likely to contain roof contaminants such as soil/dust, bird droppings, fertiliser residue and other small particles or chemicals that accumulate on your roof between rain events.

First Flush Diverter
Again, I used the one available from Bunnings.

The kit contains the floating ball and associated special T-join that has a moulded ball seat. Also included is the tube emd-cap, which allows for a steady release of diverted water, allowing the tube to empty once rain has ceased, resetting the system automatically.

The kit contains several rubber washers that have different sized pin-holes in them, allowing you to control the rate of water release and therefore the timing for the system to reset. Choice of hole size is based on the size of the diversion tube, which can be quite large. The recommendation is to have as large a tube as possible given your space limitations.

In this photo you can see the floating ball in the background as well as the assembled end cap.








Overall impressions

My experience of installing the first flush diverter was problematic to say the least. The instructions were very unclear. I needed to use several YouTube videos as well as study the individual parts to finally understand how to assemble the unit. This is definitely an area the company could improve in.

However, after finally working it all out, the final system is excellent and works very well. It is easy to clean and would be easy to replace if anything should fail.

I was surprised by how much debris accuulated in the bottom of the diverter pipe, thereby preventing this from entering our drinking water. It was smelly, black mud. On this basis alone I would now never have a tank without a first flush diverter.

The Leaf Beater does as it suggests and was easy to install. The amount of leaf debris that can accumulate on the mesh is quite high, but this does not prevent water from passing through it at a high flow rate during, for example, a thunderstorm.

Once it has stopped raining, it is a simple task to remove the mesh, which is sitting in the device and not clipped or screwed in, and empty it of its leaves and twigs.

Recommendation

I would recommend both these devices. I note that Rain Harvesting now have newer versions of the first flush diverters. My only hope is that they have improved their instructions.

The Leaf Beater is really for people that do not already have a tank mesh filter, but if you don't, then this product will do its job well.