Wednesday, 25 September 2019

Wine from 200 Vines Part 3: Trellis Installation

It's Winter so its time to get our vineyard trellising installed, ready for our Spring planting.

The vine rows have all been fertilised with the neighbour's manure which has then been dug in via a rotary hoe:



Scale is the key factor here. We have 8 rows that require 16 trellis ends, or "end assemblies" as they are known around here. This is too much for us to do by ourselves with a pick and shovel, so we have to pay a fencing contractor for this job. However, the scale is not so big that we need them to do the wiring. Instead, we can complete that ourselves.




As you can see, the trellis ends are using a pole as a diagonal brace. This gives a less bulky structure that a traditional box shape and is more elegant to look at.

The final height of the end posts is 1800 mm above the ground (2400 mm total length) and the short posts are 200 mm. They are spaces 2800 mm.

Next, we add the steel posts between the trellis ends. Steel is better than the CCA treated posts as it is recyclable. CCA pine cannot be burned and therefore must be put in landfill if it is removed from the ground. We want to minimise the environmental impact of our farm, so steel is the best option.

The posts below are Waratah Gripfast 2400 mm vine trellis posts.


Now we add wire. We are reusing 2.85 mm high-tension fencing wire that we salvaged from a fence that we removed. This is the standard diameter for the fruiting (cordon) wire, and should be adequate for the irrigation wire. It might be a bit large for the fruiting wires but we'll see how we go.

Again, because this is small scale, we can use ratchet tensioners for each wire. This would be cost-prohibitive in a large winery, but we only need 32. 
We've also dug a trench to get our irrigation system installed.
The irrigation tubing is 13 mm for each vine row with 19 mm across each end. This will be fed from a 32 mm pipe from the water tank.
The drip tube is tied to the drip wire with cable ties.

Ok. So now we have our vineyard trellised and plumbed and ready for the next step... Planting !

Thursday, 18 April 2019

When your dam runs dry... dig a new dam

Here is our problem:

Plus we have a problem of a "scrape and fill" dam, which means it is very shallow - about 1.5 meters in a typical season.

Dams that are shallow evaporate quickly. A dam 3 meters deep will typically lose 60% over Summer while one 5 metres deep will lose 40%. So a 1.5 metre deep dam will lose...... everything!

So we have decided to fix the problem by pushing in the dam wall and digging a new dam.

This is fundamentally driven by the current dam being built over a stone reef which make digging down hard, and by the fact that the current wall is like a dike in Holland. It is unnecessarily high and aesthetically ugly.

The new dam will provide the following outcomes:

  • Capacity of 4.5 Ml
  • Deep
  • Can swim in it during Summer
  • Aesthetically integrated with the landscape
  • Can be seen from the house as a feature
This approach was conceived by us but confirmed by both a local water expert and by the contractor who will dig the dam and move the earth.

Future posts will show the process.

Thursday, 20 December 2018

Dams to Wetlands: Part 3 - Time to Plant

November and December are the best months to plant in and around the water of the dam.

As the dam water receeds, the space becomes accessible and new plantings have a chance to become established before being inundated by the Autumn rains.

The objective of the plantings is to:

  1. Stabilise the soil around the dam
  2. Create habitat for native wilflife, particularly  frogs
  3. Become water purifiers
  4. Improve the aesthetics of the space

We took the chance to put in about 70 plants as close to the water as possible. These included the River Bottle Brush (Callistemon sieberi) as we as various rushes (Juncus) species sourced from the local nursery and being of local provenance.

All these plants have the benefits of being fast-growing, while the Juncus is particularly easy to plant, not requiring staking or covering. The local Macropods also don't seem too interested when there is tastier grass to be found elsewhere.

The area we chose to plant was the gentle slope down the hill, which is basically a mud flat, full of silt and nutrients. This is in contrast to the dam-wall side, which is rocky and would be more difficult for the plants to establish.

The plantings on the mud-flat area should quickly spread and start to fill that space.

Rushes planted in the silt

Several Rush species

See the new plants to the right and below the dam
We'll check back in a few months and see how these are progressing.